A Sandwich Pop-Up Inspired by Bold Sri Lankan and Indonesian Flavors

Sri Lankan black pork curry with kale and coconut mellam on Breadshop ciabatta. Photo: Thomas Obungen

I recently discovered that Sri Lankan black pork curry with kale and coconut mellum are as at home on griddled Breadshop ciabatta as they are with fragrant long-grain rice. Although I’m no stranger to bold Indonesian curries and chile-flecked sambals, the handheld versions have made Bada Gini, Fishcake’s newest popup, an exciting change to my Thursday lunch routine.

But just fast as my new obsession took hold, it’s been put on pause: After today, I learned, Bada Gini is taking a hiatus until sometime next year. Huge bummer (what will I eat on Thursdays?), but I’m still excited. Here’s why:

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Badagini translates to “I’m hungry” in Sinhala, the language of Sri Lanka. After owner Sara Uduwela tells me this, on my first visit, I tell her I was the exact opposite of badagini after inhaling half of my pork curry sandwich ($18). The pillowy ciabatta is an ideal vessel for the tender pieces of pork shoulder in a smoky curry tamed by coconut milk and pieces of stir-fried kale and coconut flakes.

But it is Uduwela’s sambal belacan Kewpie mayo that steals the show. Belacan is a Malay shrimp paste; this is an infinitely better, more complex version of mayo made with Sriracha. Even after downing a cold can of Yeo’s soy milk ($3), sweat beads under my eyes. On the side, fried bitternut chips offer more solace from the heat. I take my leftovers home to enjoy the next day.

SEE ALSO: Rotating Pop-Up Vendors at Fishcake Hook Us With New Delights

I’m back the following Thursday, and with a new week come two new sandwiches. The chicken curry grilled cheese ($18) is the hot seller because when you put curry and cheese together, it practically sells itself. I wasn’t lucky enough to nab one, so I got the alternative: a fried tofu sandwich with green bean urap (a salad with spiced coconut) and sambal matah ($18). Uduwela’s vegetarian option is thick enough to stand on its own. I especially love the crunch of the green beans and the refreshing notes of shallots, makrut lime leaves and chiles in the sambal. The sandwich takes inspiration from the plethora of side dishes and toppings that define Balinese cuisine. I might have finished this one too, but I had a big dinner to save room for.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

To play your cards right, bring a friend, buy both sandwiches and trade halves. If I could peel my boyfriend away from work, that’s what I would do.

SEE ALSO: Shioketh Lights Up Pālolo With Fiery Indo-Singaporean Flavors

Uduwela is a total third-culture kid. Born in Singapore to a Chinese mother and Sri Lankan father, she grew up there and in San Diego. A commercial photographer by trade, she most recently lived in Australia, which has a strong sandwich culture. That, along with the cuisines of her upbringing, merged into the catalyst for Bada Gini. Uduwela has no formal culinary training, but her flavors tastes true and genuine, not contrived or gimmicky. The sandwiches are solidly delicious. Finally, someone is shaking up the world of sammies, sandos and banh mis, which, in the Islands, don’t get as much love as plate lunch and bento.

Bada Gini joins a growing list of Southeast Asian pop-up restaurants and farmers market vendors that have found a footing on O‘ahu. Andrew Pressler’s Nasi Lemak serves up the national dish of Malaysia with spiced proteins and traditional garnishes at farmers markets. Shioketh launched in September with Peranakan and Indonesian dishes at Hapa Market in Pālolo. This microtrend of spicy vendors follows the brick-and-mortar openings of Straits, Café Kopi and SingMaTei in recent years, all of which have expanded the presence of this region’s famously bold flavors.

This Thursday will be Uduwela’s final popup, at least until next year, and she’s going out with a bang: three sandwiches including the spicy pork curry ciabatta, an eggplant motu pita and a spicy sardine salad on Japanese milk bread. If you’re willing to endure the torture of eating your first and last Bada Gini sandwich, plan on lunch at Fishcake. Then you can join me as we wait for her next update.

Thursday, Oct. 31, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. or until sold out, 307c Kamani St., @badagini.hi