Honolulu’s Most Over-the-Top, Caffeinated Korean Shaved Ice Is Back

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Just in time for the sweltering days of summer, En Hakkore Café and its signature giant bing su are back, baby. And by giant, we mean a heaping ramen bowl of Korean-style shaved milk ice served with a shot of espresso, easily enough for two or three. Once tucked behind the produce section of Ke‘eaumoku’s former 88 Pal Pal Supermarket, the quaint café has reemerged in the small food court inside Palama Supermarket on Makaloa Street, giving stylish imos and their equally stylish friends a place to hang out and gossip again over jumbo fruit bing su ($15.20).

Jumbo is not an exaggeration. These icy bowls capture a room’s attention like sizzling fajitas coming out of the kitchen at a Mexican restaurant. After mine arrives, three tables around me in the food court all order their own.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

It starts with the ice itself: It’s not entirely water. It’s more like milk cut with water and frozen before it’s shaved into an ephemeral snow-like dust. Working quickly, the owner tops the white mound with sweet red beans, freshly cut banana, strawberry and honeydew melon, and then mochi, slivered almonds, bokkeun konggaru (roasted soybean powder) and a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk. A hot shot of espresso rides sidecar on the tray, setting En Hakkore apart from other Korean shaved ice shops on island.

SEE ALSO: Hawai‘i’s Best Korean Shave Ice Is Hidden in a Supermarket

Sip on that demitasse between bites of milky ice and fruit or just pour that sucker right over everything as the bing su gods intended. Don’t worry, it won’t melt your powdery snow that much. When mixed in, the milky ice and subtle sweetness balance out the bitter coffee in harmonious bites that keep you wanting more.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Although I’ve only ever come to En Hakkore for the bing su, there’s a full café menu with other coffee drinks, teas and sweet toasts that have all survived the move too. The only new addition is a self-cook instant ramyun noodle station that boils water on an induction cooktop.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

This visit, I also try an iced green grape ade. Ades, derived from the word lemonade, are a popular class of drinks in Korean cafés. Especially refreshing in the summer, ades have fruit that have been pulverized or macerated with sugar and served mixed into sparkling water or soda. As a big fan of grapes, I needed to cure my curiosity, and I’m happy I did.

SEE ALSO: Shades of Shave Ice: Get Your Bingsu Two Ways in Ke‘eaumoku

Think of sweet-sour green grapes blended and added to a bubbling cup of icy Chilsung Cider. The zing of the sweet lemon-lime soda evens out the grape’s acid, plus there are bubbles. I wouldn’t recommend having this with bing su, though—it’s just too much stimulation for one sitting.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Now that En Hakkore and its giant caffeinated bing sus are back, you’ll probably catch me cooling off with the aunties, since these summer temps are about as hot as the gossip around here.

Daily 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., 1670 Makaloa St. @enhakkorecafe