Beignets and Étouffée: Nola Café Brings a Taste of the French Quarter to Kaimukī

Last week, Sean Morris texted me asking if I’ve tried the gumbo at Nola Café, the New Orleans-inspired café that took over the corner of St. Louis Drive and Wai‘alae Avenue this summer. I have not, but I’m all ears. Sean is not just a local marketing wiz (he helped the café open), he’s also a gourmand. Funny enough, it’s not the gumbo that he can’t stop talking about, it’s the shrimp étouffée, another creole dish you rarely find in these parts. I agree to meet him for a hosted lunch the next day.

We split the jambalaya ($13 a bowl, $16 a plate), chicken and sausage gumbo ($15 bowl, $18 plate) and shrimp étouffée ($15 bowl, $18 plate). I order an iced coffee drink to cool off. Nola’s air conditioner struggles against the humidity, so it feels like you’re in the South.

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Three bowls arrive with varying degrees of spice and heft. Jambalaya, the Cajun answer to paella, combines shrimp, chicken and andouille sausage with rice, tomatoes, broth and aromatic spices in one of my favorite dishes. With Spanish, African and French influences, this dish brings a lot to the table. Nola’s version is on the softer end of the texture spectrum but isn’t lacking in flavor. It’s got a decent note of spice without being too hot. I’d order a bowl again.

Jambalaya. Photo: Thomas Obungen

Nola’s recipes come from co-owner Courtney Aczon’s family, whose hometown is New Orleans. The gumbo is thinner than the gumbos I’ve had elsewhere that incorporate a dark roux. Served with two scoops of rice, it is closer to a light gravy with shredded chicken and pieces of andouille sausage than it is a stew. If you’re used to thicker Creole gumbo, mix in the rice to soak up the broth so it becomes thicker and more comforting. Plates, which are $3 more, come with extra rice and/or a side salad.

Chicken and sausage gumbo. Photo: Thomas Obungen

Shrimp étouffée is elusive, so when Sean could not stop talking about it, I knew I needed to try it. It lives up to my expectations with a velvety texture that smothers the bouncy shrimp tossed in just before finishing. If you’ve ever had pan roast at the Oyster Bar in Las Vegas, this is close, except without tomato. It’s served with rice, but I think a crusty baguette would do a fine job mopping up every drop.

Shrimp étoufée, foreground. Photo: Thomas Obungen

To make it a full lunch, I sip on a sweet Café Nola, espresso balanced with milk and chocolate, cinnamon and caramel syrups over ice. A completely different experience from the New Orleans iced coffee at Blue Bottle Coffee, but same in that the details make it stand out. Row Aczon, who co-owns Nola Café with his wife, Courtney, comes from the world of specialty coffee and knows a lot about pouring amazing lattes. Previously an operations manager at Kai Coffee, Aczon set off to make his own space with the added flair of Creole and Cajun food.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

But what would a New Orleans-inspired café be without beignets? Nola’s beignets are on the smaller side, which means they won’t leave you feeling like you need to run a marathon. In addition to the classic, non-filled version (4 pieces for $7), you can also have vanilla, chocolate or ube custard-filled beignets (4 pieces for $10). And yes, they are covered with a dangerous amount of powdered sugar, so be careful when inhaling.

Nola Café may not have the best parking situation, but don’t let that stand in your way. This menu is served all day, every day from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Open daily from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., 3040 Wai‘alae Ave, nolacafehnl.com, @nolacafehnl