Shokudo Opens an Old-School Izakaya in Waikīkī
The newest Shokudo is different from the others—and more may follow.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Avermillion noren curtain hangs above the entrance to Waikīkī Shokudo, the newest izakaya from Westman Inc. Although it’s on a quieter stretch of the bustling tourist district, the second-floor pub is lively. Familiar hallmarks of the Shokudo brand, like the wood plaque window treatments and dim ambient lighting, quickly come into view. Shokudo 3.0 feels familiar but fresh.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
The menu themes set each location apart. If the original Kapi‘olani Boulevard spot is the third culture kid known for fusion dishes, and Kaimukī Shokudo is the classy aunty with lighter seafood fare, then Waikīkī, opened three weeks ago, is the cool uncle with classic pūpū and meaty options.
The most compelling draw may be the build-your-own handroll set. It requires some work, but the juice is worth the squeeze. The $30 set includes a live binchotan grill, sushi rice, nori, shoyu and your choice of two fish to make six handrolls. Maguro (tuna), hamachi and hotate (scallop) are standard choices, or upgrade to ikura ($5 more) and uni ($10 more). Crisp the nori over the hot coals, and build your temaki as you please. The reward is a multi-textural treat.
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I’m also drawn to the house-made tofu ($8) and the crab cream croquettes ($12). The tofu is silky smooth and lightly flavored with shiso and ginger with a mild dashi. The croquettes are best enjoyed in silence: A molten, creamy filling of imitation and snow crab cocooned in crispy panko make for textural bliss. It’s nice that an order includes a pair because you’re mistaken if you think I’m sharing.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Other hot pūpū include motsuni ($12) and tako karaage ($13). Popular crossovers from Kaimukī’s menu include the buri daikon ($12), yukari fries ($6), Okinawan potato salad ($13) and the eggplant and shishito pepper age hitashi ($8).
A new menu section highlights Waikīkī Shokudo’s binchotan charcoal grill with offerings of Kaua‘i shrimp ($16), pork belly ($15) and Ichibo washugyu steak ($23). We try the gyutan ($25), but the thick cuts of beef tongue are not the thin slips we were expecting. While good, it’s a bit pricier than expected for the serving size.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Among the teppan dishes, which arrive sizzling on iron skillets, we found the knockout hit of the night. The horumon teppan ($15) presents a skillet of slightly bouncy pieces of beef intestine rendering into a mix of cabbage, chives and bean sprouts with chili threads. And a hot plate of pork belly yakisoba ($16) will give you the stamina for a third or fourth round of drinks.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Speaking of drinks, a fancy Suntory highball machine here compresses carbon dioxide five times more than regular soda water. The resulting highballs, with smaller, longer-lasting bubbles, have been likened to “whisky champagne.” From 9 p.m. to closing, most of these are on special for $6.
“We wanted to have a location in Waikīkī so we could introduce more visitors to the Shokudo brand,” said Ryan Ko, vice president of operations at Westman Inc. “Eventually, we want to expand Shokudo to the mainland and beyond.”
If you can believe it, the Shokudo brand celebrates 19 years in business this year. From March 1 to 14, all three locations will offer 19% off food orders. But even without a better-than-kama‘āina discount, as much as I’ve loved Kaimukī Shokudo since it opened 10 months ago, I think Waikīkī Shokudo has stolen my heart.
Validated $5 parking at Hyatt Centric. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., 355 Royal Hawaiian Ave., #201, (808) 425-4061, @waikikishokudo
