Secret Sushi Bar Fukurou Is a Secret Deal

Anago sushi. Photo: Melissa Chang

We’ve focused a lot on newer omakase sushi spots in the last few months, but let’s not forget that there are places that have been around and also deliver a unique and delicious experience.

I first tried Sushi Fukurou, an eight-seat omakase sushi counter hidden inside Buho Cocina y Cantina, when it opened about two years ago. It was good, and a little different, with some Mexican touches infused a few courses. Maybe it was the timing. Maybe it was the flurry of new restaurants opening up as the pandemic slowed. Whatever it was, I forgot about it and moved on.

Then I was invited to a recent media preview of Fukurou’s new menu, which changes every few months. Everything about it shocked me, as if I were eating there for the first time.

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First, the price: $90 for 13 courses. It’s nearly impossible to find a sushi omakase under $100 in Honolulu, especially a dinner omakase, and definitely not at this level of quality and creativity.

The ingredients are sourced from Hawai‘i and Japan and boss babes Miki Yanagihara and assistant Tomona Kawamoto run the show. When Fukurou opened, I think they may have been thinking too hard about incorporating Mexican elements to tie in with Buho. Now, they seem to do it naturally.

The first two bites of the current omakase are good signs of the bites to follow. The first is takabe, a sashimi dish of seasonal striped butterfish that’s served on shredded Japanese ginger, offering a contrast in subtle richness and brightness. The signature ahi yukke, which is always served, is a contrast in textures. I could have eaten three of each.

Photo: Melissa Chang

My favorite course is actually not a sushi dish, but somen served in a solid ice bowl. In the midst of record-breaking summer temperatures, the ice-cold noodles are such a treat. The dashi’s savoriness is magically addictive, and when it’s time for the next course, I find myself sad to turn in my ice bowl with its last few drops of broth.

Amaebi is served two ways: the head is fried and the rest served nigiri-style. Photo: Melissa Chang

That’s not to say the sushi isn’t up to par. I love the anago and toro taku, each wrapped in soy paper instead of nori. And the amaebi served two ways is outstanding. The nigiri is fresh, and the head is deep-fried and seasoned so well that I almost forget the yuzu ponzu dipping sauce.

Uni tostadas. Photo: Mari Taketa

This time around, I really enjoy the fusion touches. The mini tostadas topped with uni and ikura work beautifully with a delicate crunch (and it doesn’t hurt that we get three pieces); and the decadence of the A5 wagyu handroll taco elevates the experience.

Wagyu nigiri. Photo: Melissa Chang

The dessert I devour despite being full. The spoonful of yuzu sorbet is light and refreshing, and Yanagihara could get away with just serving that. But we also get a bowl of black sesame pudding that is lightly rich and not too sweet. I find myself scraping the bottom of the bowl.

Parking is fully validated in the Waikīkī Shopping Plaza. Reservations are a must.

Open Tuesday to Friday, seatings at 5:30 and 7:45 p.m. 2250 Kalākaua Ave. Suite 525, (808) 922-2846, sushifukurou.com, @sushifukurou

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