Say It Ain’t So-rabol: Mahalo to a Longtime Eatery That’s Closing After March 7

A longtime customer pays tribute to an icon among Honolulu restaurants.

 

Editor’s Note: After 32 years, Ke‘eaumoku Street’s most famous Korean eatery announced that its last day will be March 7. Sorabol thrived through decades of 24/7 service, famed for signature dishes like kalbi chim, steamed butterfish and soondae blood sausages and frequented by late-night clubbers, families, local clubs and seemingly everyone else. With a new condo development coming to Ke‘eaumoku, the restaurant moved from its prominent corner into the Pagoda Hotel two years ago, just down the block. Now, owner Lisa Lee is retiring. Here’s a tribute from a longtime customer.

 

bowl of steamed butterfish at sorabol

Steamed butterfish. Photo: Olivier Koning

 

Sorabol was always in my late-night rotation. In its 24-hour heyday, the Korean restaurant was a spot that everyone I knew, drunk or sober, found solace in at least once. For me, it was much more than that. Along with late-night diners and fast-food drive-thrus, Sorabol was an essential part of my life after weekend car cruises, clubbing or long nights when I finished work at 2 a.m. Life moves on, the pandemic came, and the new Sorabol inside the Pagoda Hotel now closes at 10 p.m. The place holds all kinds of memories—most good, some questionable—but there has never been a question about the food.

 

Although atypical, I have always found comfort in the kongbiji jjigae (콩비지 찌개), or ground soybean stew. The overly textured stew can be intimidating, but it is the most simple, non-spicy and underrated heartiness. It never needs rice and pairs well with every banchan.

 


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Don’t get me wrong, soondubu jjigae (순두부찌개), soft tofu stew, or kim chee jjigae (김치찌개) are always lifesavers. Spicy and still boiling at the table, the steam was like smoke signals that a cure for my hangover was on its way. Kalbi jjim (갈비찜), the braised short ribs, are always a fan favorite with flavorful, tender marinated meat waiting to be demolished—with rice, of course!

 

dukkuk soup at Sorabol

Tteokguk. Photo: Diane Seo

 

As years went by, we started going for early morning breakfasts, especially on New Year’s morning. The parking lot would fill by 7:30, and by 8 a.m., the restaurant was jam-packed with a line forming out the door. Even this year, Sorabol was one of the few Korean restaurants in Honolulu offering New Year’s tteokguk (떡국), Korean rice cake soup, which traditionally should be your first meal of the year. It’s always complimentary with a purchase of at least one dish.

 

I always opt for ahn chang (안창), or outside skirt beef, or a kim chee pancake. The soup has slivers of beef in a milky white beef broth with rice cakes, scrambled egg and seaweed. The servings are pretty generous, and it’s always great to run into friends sharing a meal with their families for luck in the new year.

 


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Side note to self: Is my bad luck lately because I didn’t go this year?

 

Sorabol, thank you for always being there to uplift me. Thank you for providing timeless food and memories I will never forget.

 

Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., 1525 Rycroft St., (808) 947-3113, sorabolkoreanrestaurant.com, @sorabolhawaii