The Global Menu: Neha’s Kitchen
With Neha’s Kitchen, Kuber Gurung brings food from his hometown in southern Nepal to the farmers markets of O‘ahu.
Neha’s Kitchen | Aloha German Bakery | Khao & Papas
If you think Honolulu’s food scene is still defined by poke, loco moco and Asian food, think again. The rise of farmers markets and food truck gatherings has spawned vendors serving up Argentinian barbecued meats, Lebanese zaatar flatbreads, Sri Lankan curries and more. Here’s a closer look at three of them—for their latest schedules, check their Instagrams.
In Sanskrit, neha means love. It’s the middle name Kuber and Leilani Gurung gave their daughter—a blend of his birthplace in Nepal and hers in Hawai‘i. So when Gurung opened his Nepali eatery in Leeward O‘ahu last year, Neha became its name too.
“As a Nepali, it is very important to showcase my country and its cuisine. It’s a beautiful country.”
— Kuber Gurung
Kuber Gurung. Photo: Olivier Koning
Neha’s Kitchen is mostly at farmers markets, though its schedule is likely to change: ‘Ewa Beach’s Mahiku farmers market on Wednesdays and ‘Ono Grindz and Mākeke on some Thursdays; What the Truck in Waikele on Fridays; and Wai‘anae Farmers Market on Saturday mornings. Its menu of momo dumplings, samosas, curries, Nepali chow mein and lal mohan, fried cheese balls with rose water and cane syrup, is a love letter to the Terai. The region of lowlands and savanna that girds the southern border of Nepal is Gurung’s homeland. From there, the terrain rises to foothills and the Himalayas beyond, to the highest point on Earth, Mount Everest. Gurung explains all this when I ask about his curry—it tastes nothing like any I’ve had.
Momo dumplings. Photo: Olivier Koning
“My curry is Terai style,” he says. “When I go to Nepal, the first thing I want to eat is my home food. Dinner and lunch from my sisters and my mother. Mixed vegetable curry, lentil soup, saag sautéed greens, three achar (pickled vegetables). I get fat when I go to Nepal.”
Neha’s Kitchen’s Terai-style chicken curry on basmati rice. Photo: Olivier Koning
His beef curry? Gurung starts by frying the seeds of nigella, anise, fenugreek and fennel until they release their aromas. Successive ingredients are cooked in turn before the next is added: onion, beef, turmeric and salt, ginger-garlic paste, his own masala blend with cumin and coriander and chiles, and finally, tomatoes, which have to melt completely. Braised for up to four hours, the curry presents as chunks of meat in a glossy, reddish-brown sauce. He would use Terai water buffalo if he could get it, he says, but the beef is tender and soulful and rich and craveable.
Photo: Olivier Koning
If any of this sounds similar to Indian cooking, it’s better to keep that to yourself. “As a Nepali, it is very important to showcase my country and its cuisine. It’s a beautiful country. It’s kind of overshadowed by two ginormous countries, India and China,” Gurung says. “I respect India, I respect China, but I don’t want people to call Nepali food Indian-Chinese food. Nepali food is Nepali food.”
SEE ALSO: Your Guide to Farmers Markets on O‘ahu
The scene at ‘Ono Grindz and Mākeke in ‘Ewa Beach on Thursday evenings. Photo: Olivier Koning
These vendors bring dishes found rarely, if at all, at Honolulu’s brick-and-mortar restaurants. Check each one’s Instagram for latest details about where to find them and what they’re serving.
ASIAN
A-Ma’s Gua Bao—Taiwanese steamed buns with pork belly, seasoned chicken, tofu and other fillings. @amas_gua_bao
Nasi Lemak HI—Coconut rice with galangal fried chicken, beef rendang and vegan curry. @nasilemakhi
EUROPEAN
Little Sparrow—German spaetzle noodles sautéed with savory sauces including cheese or garlic shrimp; and jägerschnitzel pork cutlets. @littlesparrowhnl
Pelmeshki—Eastern European pelmeshki and pierogi street food dumplings. @pelmeshki_hi
INDIAN
Curry Guru—Sri Lankan/South Indian dishes including turmeric rice meatball curry, curry-filled Naan-wiches and kuttu roti flatbreads. @curryguruhawaii
Simply Indulge—Pani puri, dosas and other South Indian food. @simplyindulge808
LATIN
Aloha Alfajores—Argentine cookies made with honey, nuts and dulce de leche. alohalfajoresllc.com, @alohaalfajores
El Gallo—Anticuchos, salchipapas, picarones butternut squash doughnuts and other Peruvian street food. @elgallo.hawaii
Guaiqueri Empanadas—Venezuelan empanadas with cheesy fillings including chorizo. @guaiqueri_empanadas
Guaya—Cubano sandwiches. @guaya.emp
Mar del Plata—Argentine grilled steak sandwiches and sausage sandwiches with chimichurri. @mardelplatabbq
Nosh—Brazilian pão de queijo cheese bread. @nosh_hawaii
Papi’s Empanadas—Argentine empanadas with fillings including crab, chicken and corn. @papisempanadas
Rico Rico Chicken—Peruvian rotisserie chicken. @ricoricochicken
MIDDLE EAST
Māla-Be—Middle Eastern rose water cup desserts. @malabe_life
Saj Beirut—Lebanese desserts and flatbreads topped or rolled with zaatar or minced lamb. @sajbeiruthawaii
PACIFIC
4rm Skrach—Pagipopo, puligi, pisupo and other Samoan dishes. @4rmskrach
Perefoti Island Fixx—Vaifala, poi fa‘i, panikeke and other Samoan drinks and dishes. @perefotiislandfixx
