Honolulu Magazine https://www.honolulumagazine.com/ HONOLULU Magazine writes stories that matter—and stories that celebrate the unique culture, heritage and lifestyle of Hawai‘i. Tue, 01 Apr 2025 20:27:21 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wpcdn.us-midwest-1.vip.tn-cloud.net/www.honolulumagazine.com/content/uploads/2020/08/favicon.ico Honolulu Magazine https://www.honolulumagazine.com/ 32 32 Champion Conservation with These Essential Titles https://www.honolulumagazine.com/conservation-books/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 18:30:04 +0000 https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=796062

 

April is a special time in Hawai‘i. Marking not only the early days of spring, April is also Native Hawaiian Plant Month, celebrating the rich biocultural diversity of our over 1,400 native plant species. This auspicious month also arrives in 2025, which has been declared the Year of Our Community Forests. The mission of this year is to promote caring for the trees in our wao kanaka, the communities where we live, learn, and play.

 

Yet there is a renewed urgency to this year’s Native Hawaiian Plant Month. At a time when both endangered species as well as public lands housing important ecosystems are at risk of exploitation and decimation, it’s vital now more than ever that we read, learn and actively engage in conservation efforts to protect and preserve native species.

 

To curate our recommended reading list, we spoke with Danya Weber. A conservation biologist and local artist, Weber is also founder of Laulima, a fashion and home goods brand that’s raised more than $50,000 for more than 20 Hawai‘i nonprofits and conservation efforts.

 


SEE ALSO: Celebrate Hawai‘i’s Trees During the Year of Our Community Forests


 

Na Lei Makamae

Photo: Courtesy of Da Shop: Books + Curiosities

 

Nā Lei Makamae: The Treasured Lei

by Marie A. McDonald and Paul R. Weissich

Selected by Danya

Containing some of the most beautiful photographs I have ever seen, Nā Lei Makamae showcases a plethora of lei made from an impressive diversity of native Hawaiian plants, many of which are quite difficult to find today given perils that native species have faced over the last few centuries. Not only does this book highlight incredible ephemeral artworks made from flowers, foliage, fruits, and seeds, but it also provides botanical information about plants’ natural ranges, historical uses, and significances in mo‘olelo. Altogether, Nā Lei Makamae inspires a deep appreciation for Hawai‘i’s unique and magnificent native flora.

 


SEE ALSO: Fashion Designer and Lei-Maker Meleana Estes Launches A New Book


 

Looking for more titles on native plants and nature conservancy? Check out our bookseller recommendations:

 

Laau Hawaii

Photo: Courtesy of Da Shop: Books + Curiosities

 

Lā‘au Hawai‘i: Traditional Hawaiian Uses of Plants

by Isabella Aiona Abbott

Recently reissued by Bishop Museum Press, this vital work of ethnobotany by the great Isabella Aiona Abbott is a comprehensive guide of traditional Hawaiian plants used for food, clothing, shelter, transport, religion and recreation. Abbott’s goal is intentional and admirable: by studying the ways people of old Hawai‘i cultivated and depended on lā‘au Hawai‘i (Hawaiian plants) to meet their needs, Abbott wished to glean insight into their meaningful relationship to the natural environment we collectively call home. Over 30 years past printing, and Abbott’s words continue to ring true: “There is no time to lose in protecting these plants, upon which the authentic revival of many Hawaiian cultural elements depends.”

 


 

Plants In Hawaiian Culture

Photo: Courtesy of Da Shop: Books + Curiosities

 

Plants in Hawaiian Culture

by Beatrice H. Krauss

Plants in Hawaiian Culture is a fantastic introduction to the ethnobotany of Hawai‘i, which highlights the relationship between native plants and people. In this book, Krauss pays special attention to native plants, which include endemic species found only in Hawai‘i, Indigenous plants and Polynesian-introduced plants. Complete with photos of habitat views, beautiful line drawings, and detailed descriptions, Krauss shares information on early Hawai‘i and the native plants used in food, crafts, houses, instruments, games, medicine and more.

 


 

Under The Ohia Tree Cover

Photo: Courtesy of Da Shop: Books + Curiosities

 

Under the ‘Ōhi‘a Tree

by Erzsi Palko

We could not be more excited for Erzsi Palko’s thoughtful meditations on the beautiful ‘ōhi‘a tree and the diversity of native forest species it supports and sustains. From the pueo that invites the reader into the book to the endemic forest birds that subsist off the ‘ōhi‘a tree’s sweet nectar to the kāhuli dreaming under an ‘ōhi‘a leaf, this is a dazzling and informative picture book we simply can’t put down. Complete with detailed notes about Hawai‘i’s Native Species across the Hawaiian Islands and even an informal pronunciation guide, Under the ‘Ōhi‘a Tree is a beautiful love letter to native forest species and “those who love them and act on their behalf.” Keep your eye out for this stunning picture book forthcoming from Bess Press!

 


 

Da Shop: Books + Curiosities, 3565 Harding Ave., open Wednesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., (808) 421-9460, dashophnl.com@dashophnl

 

 

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New Latin Foodscape: Guaiqueri’s Venezuelan Empanadas https://www.honolulumagazine.com/latin-foodscape-guaiqueri/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:01:53 +0000 https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=795635

 

Editor’s note: This is part two of a five-part story from HONOLULU’s April issue exploring Honolulu’s new wave of Latin restaurants.

 

Peruvian Corner  |  Guaiqueri  |  La CasitaSan Paolo Pizza & WineMercado de la Raza

 

Launched from Spain centuries ago, empanadas crossed oceans—to Italy and North Africa, the Philippines and Indonesia. In Central and South America, where they permeate virtually every country, countless variations evolved. The big half-moons at Guaiqueri, a roving pop-up on O‘ahu, are rich and subtly flavored—exactly as Omarlys Fernandez’s grandmother made them on Isla Margarita, 25 miles off the coast of Venezuela.

 

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Jurian Rojas and Omarlys Fernandez at Guaiqueri Empanadas. Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

 

Venezuelan empanadas are corn flour empanadas, mixed sometimes with a bit of wheat flour to tamp down oil absorption in the fryer. Beyond that, Fernandez adds dashes of sugar and salt to the corn flour she buys from Venezuela. Her fillings vary from traditional to ham and cream cheese; chorizo yields soft notes of cinnamon and paprika, the minced beef a robust garlic. When the menu veers from empanadas, it’s because Jurian Rojas, her husband, has a new idea—like poke on arepa chips—which he debuts at the weekly Sunday Aloha Home Market in Waikīkī.

 

Fourteen years ago, the couple traded Isla Margarita for O‘ahu, drawn to its beauty, and compared to Venezuela, its comforts and safety. For 10 years, Fernandez taught Montessori school, then she put on an apron and dove full-time into making empanadas.

 

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Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

 

The hand pies let her express a duality—her roots are Guaiqueri, the Indigenous people she named her business after, and Venezuelan. They come together in Guaiqueri’s pabellón criollos, Venezuela’s national dish of stewed beef, black beans and plantains wrapped in an empanada. The crispy-chewy crust hints at a fleeting sweetness—her grandmother’s pinch of sugar—then it’s gone like a ripple.

 

(808) 292-7666, guaiqueriempanadas.com, @guaiqueri_empanadas

 

 

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New Latin Foodscape: A Central American Gateway at La Casita https://www.honolulumagazine.com/latin-foodscape-la-casita/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:01:50 +0000 https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=795711

 

Editor’s note: This is part three of a five-part story from HONOLULU’s April issue exploring Honolulu’s new wave of Latin restaurants.

 

Peruvian Corner  |  Guaiqueri  |  La Casita |  San Paolo Pizza & WineMercado de la Raza

 

La Casita pupusas

Photo: Courtney Mau

 

Tucked between Arby’s and Elena’s Home of Finest Filipino Foods, La Casita is O‘ahu’s best gateway to Central America. The menu is an abbreviated tour of a region whose seven countries cram an isthmus of 1,140 miles, about the distance from Seattle to Los Angeles. Pupusas headline the menu, El Salvador’s griddle-cooked cornmeal cakes filled with permutations of pork, beans and cheese. Also from El Salvador are yuca con chicharron, chunks of deep-fried pork shoulder piled on thick-cut cassava fries with a side of sauerkrautlike curtido, while the baleadas—whisper-thin flour tortillas folded around beans, cheese and sour cream—are Honduran. The tacos, taquitos and quesadillas are Mexican.

 

“What about the pescado frito whole fried fish?” I ask. “Where’s that from?”

 

“Many countries,” chef Gladys Najera says with a shrug. Najera is from Honduras; her grandfather was Salvadoran. She cooked in Latin kitchens across the United States before arriving in Waipahu, where she and daughter Yosselyn de Abreu launched their pupuseria in 2019. “This food is from around Central America. If you’re from Guatemala, you eat similar. If you’re from Honduras, you eat similar,” she says. “We have the same language, same culture. We use the same seasonings. We’re very close in the way we live.”

 


SEE ALSO: Pupusas, Pastelitos And Other Salvadoran Eats Are in Waipahu


 

The same-same-but-different effect shows in La Casita’s tamales. “In most countries, they’re similar, but some places make it with pork, vegetables,” Najera says. “Some people put olives, green peppers, even peas, because it’s to enjoy at home.”

 

She boils her tamales Salvadoreños twice—first just the masa, then, wrapped in banana leaves and foil, masa with fillings inside. The steaming cornmeal comes out improbably fluffy and the potatoes, tucked inside with shredded chicken and rice tinged with salsa, take up the flavors and melt like a hug on the palate.

 

94-866 Moloalo St., D-11A, Waipahu, (808) 676-6987, @lacasitahawaii

 

 

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New Latin Foodscape: All In, Brazilian-Style, at San Paolo Pizza & Wine https://www.honolulumagazine.com/latin-foodscape-san-paolo-pizza-wine/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:01:49 +0000 https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=795750

 

Editor’s note: This is part four of a five-part story from HONOLULU’s April issue exploring Honolulu’s new wave of Latin restaurants.

 

Peruvian Corner  |  Guaiqueri  |  La Casita |  San Paolo Pizza & Wine |  Mercado de la Raza

 

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Portuguese pizza. Photo: Courtesy of San Paolo Pizza & Wine

 

“I’m all in,”Andre Alves de Moraes says. “If I’m not gonna do it the right way, it’s not worth doing at all.” He’s at San Paolo Pizza & Wine, the 170-seat restaurant he and two partners opened last year where Ala Moana Boulevard curves toward Waikīkī. San Paolo sells Brazilian-style pizzas, a thriving remnant of Italian immigration to South America in the early 20th century. Convincing diners about pizza’s place in Brazilian cuisine is easy because people understand the melding of tradition with local ingredients. Convincing them that they should pay $50 for his pizza is different.

 

San Paolo pizzas are craft pies unlike any we know. Alves de Moraes, who launched O‘ahu’s three Tropical Tribe açaí cafés, is from (did you guess?) São Paolo. To a large degree, so are the pizzas: The forno oven, one of two chefs, and ingredients like soft catupiry cheese and smoky Calabresa sausages are from Brazil. Much of the rest is from Italy, including the other chef (who Alves de Moraes says placed third in a global Neapolitan pizza competition), pizza flour, pepperoni and specialty cheeses.

 

The dough, left to rest for two to three days, produces a light, chewy crust whose edges balloon with crispy air pockets. It’s excellent—all in, with live Brazilian music on weekends, double-stitched faux leather place mats, and water served in stemware driving home the point that pizza can be upscale.

 

There are 27 pizzas now, large, loaded and big enough for two: traditional Italian pies, others with filet mignon or truffle cream, and a Portuguese pizza with ham and eggs and olives. For $40, you can try mini slices of all 27.

 

“It’s always hard when you’re the first one to do something. I want to break the barrier of what people think of pizza,” Alves de Moraes says. “Ours take days to make—we import high-quality ingredients, use long fermentation and prep handcrafted meats and sauces. Pizza can be just as elevated, just as complex in flavors and prep, as any other kind of food.”

 

1765 Ala Moana Blvd., (808) 979-1785, sanpaolopizzeria.com, @sanpaolo_pizzaandwine

 

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New Latin Foodscape: At Peruvian Corner, a Backyard Oasis of Sabor https://www.honolulumagazine.com/latin-foodscape-peruvian-corner/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:01:34 +0000 Waialua]]> https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=795616

 

Honolulu’s Latin foodscape has long belonged to its Mexican restaurants, reliable go-tos for burritos, fajitas and free-flowing margaritas. Change here was inevitable—craft taquerias started proliferating more than a decade ago, followed lately by regional Mexican food specialists.

 

Throughout, an even bigger sea change has gone largely unnoticed: Roughly two dozen South and Central American eateries have set up around O‘ahu, the vast majority without fixed storefronts. From food trucks, trailers and farmers markets, they’re serving up Peruvian ceviches, Colombian cookies and all kinds of empanadas.

 

The reason? Latinos are the fastest-growing ethnic group in Hawai‘i—comprising 11% of the population in 2022, according to the U.S. Census Bureau—so it’s natural their food cultures would follow. “Before, everyone was from Mexico,” says Sandy Tsukiyama, a Spanish-language interpreter who hosts The Brazilian Experience on KHPR. “Now they’re from Honduras, El Salvador, Venezuela and Colombia, and some are from Nicaragua.”

 

It’s not just a growing population. Peruvian cuisine has been trending globally—three of the 2024 World’s 50 Best Restaurants are in Lima (and just one in New York City)—arguably one reason this is the most popular of Honolulu’s new Latin offerings. Here’s a look at players in the nuevo mundo Latino.

 

Peruvian Corner  |  Guaiqueri  |  La CasitaSan Paolo Pizza & WineMercado de la Raza

 


 

Peruvian Corner 2

Dishes at Peruvian Corner, clockwise from top left: lomo saltado, aji de gallina, purple corn, flaming scallops, ceviche. Photo: Oliver Koning

 

There’s a wonderland quality to Peruvian Corner, as if fairies touched this cocoon of a space in the backyard of The Smoking Boar and the Coconut in Waialua. A smiley face sun beams from a mural and fresh flowers adorn white picnic tables under matching red umbrellas—the same colors that decorate Miguel and Fanny Torres’ food trailer. Lomo saltado, aji de gallina chicken stew, salchipapa sausage-topped fries, Cheesecake Lilicoy: The hands that make and serve these dishes are the ones that painted the tables and set out the flowers. If you eat in, real plates appear—my yuca fries arrive on a sheen of black glass.

 

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Miguel and Fanny Torres, center, with their children. Photo: Oliver Koning

 

“My husband, I love my husband’s food,” co-owner Fanny Torres says. The ceviche clasico, a simplicity of hamachi under red onion shavings, is perfect in its fresh tang and heat. More mysterious is the other ceviche: mixed fish set off by tobiko and jewel-like cuts of yam. Before he found a job in the U.S. secure enough to bring Fanny and their two children, Miguel Torres cooked in trendy Peruvian Nikkei restaurants around South America. He’s working his way back up.

 

Peruvian Corner Dishes

Photos: Oliver Koning

 

I ask to snap a photo. Next to her husband, Fanny beams and lifts her chin with pride. She shows me a phrase she’s typed into a translator app on her phone: “Nosotros pensamos más adelante tener un restaurante o espacio major,” it reads. “We plan to have a restaurant or a better space in the future.” Secretly, I hope they’ll stay awhile in this happy corner.

 

67-456 Goodale Ave., Waialua, (808) 367-7669, @peruviancornerhawaii

 

 

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New Latin Foodscape: The New Generation at Mercado de la Raza https://www.honolulumagazine.com/latin-foodscape-mercado-de-la-raza/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:01:32 +0000 https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=795759

 

Editor’s note: This is part five of a five-part story from HONOLULU’s April issue exploring Honolulu’s new wave of Latin restaurants.

 

Peruvian Corner  |  Guaiqueri  |  La CasitaSan Paolo Pizza & Wine |  Mercado de la Raza

 

Things you’ll find at Mercado de la Raza:

  • $1 bottles of Tajín 
  • Paçoquitas Brazilian peanut candy 
  • Colombiana La Nuestra sodas 
  • Piñatas 
  • Prayer candles 
  • Vitacilina ointment 

 

Mercado de la Raza is where you go when a recipe calls for fresh nopales, gandules or Colombian sour cream. If you are Latino, it’s a nexus. Martha Sanchez Romero opened the Makiki store in 1995 and estimated that 90% of her customers were local. Two years ago, Megahn Chun and her husband, Alex Villarino, bought it; now two-thirds of customers are Latino. 

 

Mercado de la Raza owners Megahn Chun and Alex Villarino

Megahn Chun and Alex Villarino at Mercado de la Raza. Photo: Olivier Koning

 

“We have a lot of Latinos who come in, maybe they just moved here, maybe they’re just searching for their own people. So a lot of what we do is referral. Sometimes it’s ‘Do you know somebody that has a truck’ or ‘Do you know a lawyer?’” Chun says. “Part of our mission is to empower local Latino entrepreneurs to have the tools that they need.” 

 

Chun, from Kaimukī, had worked in fashion and marketing. Villarino, from Mexico, is a principal in a management consultancy with Fortune 500 clients. Chun brushed up on Spanish after meeting Villarino in New York; since then, with the store and a toddler son to teach about Latino culture, she’s made herself fluent. Neither had run a store, but the couple jumped into the center of a fractured and growing Latin scene. Mercado’s Instagram shouts out other Latino businesses; in-store events connect vendors with customers.

 

Here’s what else you’ll find, all of it made on O‘ahu: 

  • Argentinian empanadas by Tango Empanadas
  • Aloha Alfajores’ Colombian dulce de leche cookies 
  • Raíz heirloom corn tortillas 
  • Conchas sweet breads from Sabor a la Mexicana 

 

“It goes beyond the food and ingredients; it’s about the community. The value of a small business like us is you don’t need to prove that you’re gonna order $500,000 of a product. You can say, ‘Hey, I’m really trying to do this thing, can you help me?’ And we’ll be like, ‘Yeah, we’ll bring in a case of this and keep it for you,’” Villarino says. “That’s why this place is such an anchor of the community. It’s much more than just a store.” 

 

1315 S. Beretania St., (808) 593-2226, @mercadodelaraza

 

 

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Can We Return to Ahupua‘a? https://www.honolulumagazine.com/can-we-return-to-ahupuaa/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:01:15 +0000 https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=791583

“This conversation is a bold one, but it’s time to be bold.”

—JOHN DEFRIES, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MAUNA KEA STEWARDSHIP AND OVERSIGHT AUTHORITY

U

Ua mau ke ea o ka ‘āina i ka pono. The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness.

 

It’s the official motto of our state, the words of King Kamehameha III, and its message lies at the heart of a bold movement taking shape in Hawai‘i.

 

A prominent group of leaders has organized to resurrect the Islands’ traditional ahupua‘a and konohiki systems. Their calling: to better care for Hawai‘i’s natural resources and residents.

 

Ahupua‘a is a traditional Hawaiian land division and management system that took shape around A.D. 1200 and remained in place until the Great Mahele of 1848, when the Kingdom of Hawai‘i transitioned from a communal land system to one of private ownership. Its guiding principle is that land, water and all of nature are interconnected, so they must be managed synergistically, with care. Under the system, the Hawaiian Islands were structured into approximately 725 ahupua‘a, each being ecologically self-sustaining, and extending from the mountains to the sea, mauka to makai.

 

“In Hawai‘i’s history, water was considered sacred. The rains fed rivers and streams, which flowed down from the mountains,” says Kamana‘opono Crabbe, one of the movement’s organizers. “Our ancestors were highly knowledgeable of that system and preserved Hawai‘i as a pristine habitat.”

 

Konohiki was the governing system of ahupua‘a, led by a chief and council of leaders tasked with managing natural resources to ensure people had ample food, clean water, places to live and more. Leaders of each ahupua‘a had to intrinsically understand and adhere to nature’s flow to successfully tend to watersheds, fishponds, forests and agricultural lands. Doing so ensured that invasive species didn’t run amok, fishponds weren’t disrupted, and crops were abundant.

 

“It was a symbiotic balance of making sure that if we take care of nature, it will take care of us,” says Stacy Ferreira, CEO of the Office of Hawaiian Affairs, who took part in a recent talk about ahupua‘a.

 

While ahupua‘a and konohiki worked in Hawai‘i’s past, questions linger. Can ancient systems be applied in modern day Hawai‘i and coexist under the state’s current government? Likewise, would the people of Hawai‘i support going back to traditional Hawaiian ways of mālama ‘āina, or caring for the land?

How the Discussion Began

 

Conversations about ahupua‘a have been taking place through the Hawai‘i Executive Collaborative, a consortium of business, government and community leaders that devises solutions for the state’s most urgent problems. (HEC chairman Duane Kurisu owns aio, the parent company of HONOLULU.) HEC participants—essentially a who’s who of Hawai‘i leaders—have been meeting in recent years both at an annual conference and at organized “accelerators” as part of an overall effort called “Rediscovering Hawai‘i’s Soul.”

 

In January, a newly formed ahupua‘a team met for two days at an accelerator at the East-West Center. The resurrection of ahupua‘a was among four topics tackled by different teams of leaders representing a wide range of industries and organizations.

 

Yet such talks are nothing new. For years, Native Hawaiian leaders have been advocating a return to traditional practices to repair damage they say has occurred in modern times.

 

It came up in 2014, during the highly divisive debates over Maunakea. Critical of plans to construct the Thirty Meter Telescope atop a sacred mountain, Native Hawaiians accused the government of mismanaging Hawai‘i’s lands and natural resources. This led to other contentious discussions about the still-unresolved future of Hawai‘i’s Kingdom Lands, also known as ceded lands. Then in 2023, with government and other entities targeted for blame after wildfires tore through Lahaina, calls to resurrect the ahupua‘a grew even louder.

 

The argument: In Hawai‘i’s past, with ahupua‘a and konohiki systems in place, up to a million residents were able to live sustainably on the Islands, which is no longer the case.

 

“By compromising our watersheds and environment, we’re now importing the majority of our food, and water is scarce. The traditions of our ancestors are night and day from what government has implemented, and we’ve gotten out of harmony with how nature flows,” Crabbe says.

Time for Radical Change

 

That was the resounding sentiment among the group gathered in January to discuss ahupua‘a and konohiki, including John DeFries, executive director of the Mauna Kea Stewardship and Oversight Authority and former CEO of the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority.

 

“This conversation is a bold one, but it’s time to be bold,” he said at the gathering.

 

It’s clear Hawai‘i’s most urgent problems are upending lives. The high cost of living and particularly the lack of affordable housing has led to an ongoing, dramatic outflow of residents—40,000 people in 2024 alone. And according to Aloha United Way’s 2024 “ALICE” report, 37% of Hawai‘i’s residents are considering leaving, while 4 in 10 residents are struggling to make ends meet. Hawai‘i also imports 90% of its food and goods, despite a statewide push toward sustainability.

 

As far as our ‘āina, it’s not healthy, the leaders say. O‘ahu’s Red Hill crisis revealed the vulnerability of our water systems when jet fuel leaked from an underground military storage facility into the freshwater aquifer, contaminating drinking water. And in Lahaina, unmaintained, overgrown vegetation was partly to blame for the quick spread of the wildfires.

 

“Individuals in our community feel they are no longer able to survive here or take care of their families, find jobs and places to live,” says Ulalia Woodside Lee, director of The Nature Conservancy, Hawai‘i and Palmyra, and part of the ahupua‘a team. “Our natural environment is facing challenges, too. We face consequences like the runoff of topsoil into streams and ocean, wildfires or fires near urban places like Lahaina, and agriculture crops are under attack from invasive bugs.”

 

Unless dramatic changes take place, these and other issues are likely to get worse, she and other leaders say.

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Photo: Courtesy of IslandBreath.org/Juan Wilson
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S. P. Kalama’s 1837 map of Na Mokupuni o Hawai‘i Nei. Photo: Courtesy of IslandBreath.org/Juan Wilson
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S. P. Kalama’s 1838 map of Na Mokupuni o Hawai‘i Nei. Note: this map was printed in four sections. Mokus were colored by hand. The upper left quadrant, including O‘ahu, Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau, are only colored with yellow and blue and did not include Moku colors green or red. Photo: Courtesy of IslandBreath.org/Juan Wilson

“Can We Design a New Hawai‘i?”

 

It’s a question raised by Corbett Kalama, part of the ahupua‘a team and president and CEO of RESCO Inc., parent company of real estate firm Locations.

 

Under the traditional konohiki system, installing competent leaders was critical. Each ahupua‘a was led by a paramount or top chief (ali‘i nui) along with several councils of chiefly leaders (mau ‘aha ali‘i). They were selected, according to Crabbe, because of their good character (‘ōpūali‘i, na ‘auali‘i) and honorable stewardship of land, ocean, water and people. If the chiefs did not serve well, they were removed from power.

 

The goal of chiefs was to grow mana, he adds. They had to be na‘auao (enlightened, highly intellectual, virtuous, moral) with na‘au (the seat of the Hawaiian mind), and they had to exhibit hanapono (proper behavior, etiquette, protocol). They focused on the welfare of the people for the benefit of the community.

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Photo: Courtesy of Paepae O He‘eia

Not So Far-Fetched

 

While today, all of that may seem more idealistic than realistic, there are several examples of ahupua‘a practices in place. These are just a few:

 

In the early 2000s, The Nature Conservancy, UH and the state joined forces to clear invasive algae from Kāne‘ohe Bay’s coral reefs. They successfully vacuumed algae off the reef and brought in native sea urchins to prevent it from growing back. After considering the causes of the problem, they decided better management was needed upland as well, a key ahupua‘a principle. Community groups then set out to restore the health of the whole He‘eia ahupua‘a, providing a model for large-scale restoration through traditional Hawaiian practices.

 

“We’re restoring traditional systems, lo‘i systems, for the potential of growing food for the community,” says Hi‘ilei Kawelo, executive director of Paepae o He‘eia, a group that’s restoring the He‘eia fishpond. “Our inspiration, drive and passion is our history and what our kūpuna did. It’s an 800-year-old fishpond. We want it to work again, so the fishpond can feed the community and provide an ecological benefit.”

 

The Waipā Foundation on Kaua‘i, meanwhile, has been stewarding the 1,600-acre Waipā ahupua‘a, along Hanalei Bay, under a lease from landowner Kamehameha Schools. Through various programs, the organization cites its mission as restoring Waipā’s vibrant natural systems and resources through Hawaiian values and ahupua‘a practices.

 

And on Moloka‘i, Native Hawaiian activist Walter Ritte, part of HEC’s ahupua‘a team, says his organization, ‘Āina Momona, works under principles of ahupua‘a, managing land and water to ensure the health of the island’s ecosystem. (See story below)

But There Are Obstacles

 

Yet, even with motivated and organized community members, reinstating a complete ahupua‘a system—from mauka to makai, with konohiki governance—requires an overhaul of Hawai‘i’s current land systems, not a simple undertaking to say the least.

 

Hawai‘i’s lands are now owned and managed by multiple entities—government, trusts, businesses, and both large and small landowners. After the Great Mahele, landownership wasn’t parceled by ahupua‘a, so each ahupua‘a likely has multiple owners.

 

The state’s Department of Land and Natural Resources oversees nearly 1.3 million acres of Hawai‘i’s lands, beaches and coastal waters, along with 750 miles of coastline. This includes state parks, historical sites, forests, public fishing and hunting areas, and natural sanctuaries. DLNR also manages watersheds, along with the Board of Water Supply.

 

Along with state ownership, Hawai‘i counties and the U.S. government oversee thousands of acres of their own. Add to this the U.S. military, whose bases comprise thousands of acres; leases on some of those lands come up for renewal in 2028. Then, of course, there are large landowners like Kamehameha Schools and Alexander & Baldwin. Meanwhile, about 200,000 acres are designated as Hawaiian home lands, administered by the state to provide leased land to Native Hawaiians.

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Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

What About Ceded Lands?

 

Amid this complex network of landownership lies the unresolved, volatile issue of Kingdom Lands. Some 1.8 million acres of Kingdom Lands belonged to the Hawaiian Kingdom before the illegal overthrow of Hawai‘i in 1893. After being ceded to the U.S. in 1898, 1.4 million acres were transferred back to Hawai‘i in 1959 when it became a state. (The federal government kept 374,000 acres for military bases and national parks.) The lands were designated in a public trust intended to benefit the people of Hawai‘i and Native Hawaiians, and OHA was established in 1978 to administer 20% of the share of Public Land Trust revenues to Native Hawaiians.

 

Since 2014, OHA has been working on a Kingdom Lands inventory to ensure that Native Hawaiians get their fair share of revenues, but the group has run into numerous roadblocks while trying to compile an accurate, comprehensive list, says Ferreira, the agency’s CEO.

 

The issue over ceded lands ties into the ahupua‘a discussion because there will be no return to ahupua‘a without land. And because these lands were designated in a trust to benefit Native Hawaiians and the people of Hawai‘i, those pushing to reinstate ahupua‘a believe at least some ceded lands could potentially be utilized in this capacity. The leaders who convened in January discussed lobbying DLNR—whose domain includes a good portion of Kingdom Lands—to adopt “ahupua‘a or stewardship zoning,” as a feasible way forward.

DLNR: Partner or Obstacle?

 

Throughout the two days of ahupua‘a talks, DLNR’s stewardship of Hawai‘i’s land and natural resources was questioned. It’s an issue that last year led some community members and lawmakers to call for the resignation of DLNR Chair Dawn Chang, citing mismanagement.

 

Chang was invited to the recent ahupua‘a discussion, but the legislative session kept her from attending. Nevertheless, in a later interview, she expressed her support for the adoption of traditional Hawaiian practices, saying she sees such methods as being “vital to how land is managed in Hawai‘i.” DLNR, she says, has numerous partnerships already in place with ‘āina-based community organizations—such as Paepae o He‘eia and Hui Maka‘āinana o Makana, which stewards Hā‘ena State Park on Kaua‘i—and wants to establish more. “I see ‘āina-based management as natural, instinctual and culturally appropriate,” Chang says.

 

As far as adopting a true konohiki system, though, that won’t be easy. Getting DLNR to relinquish control of its current management responsibilities is a hurdle, but Chang says she and others from DLNR want to improve the agency’s standing in the community through meaningful partnerships that allow groups to tend to lands and water where it makes sense.

 

“Native Hawaiians have not historically trusted the Department of Land and Natural Resources or government as a whole because we haven’t created an environment of shared responsibility for change,” Chang says. “To change that dynamic, we need partnerships with our communities. That’s historically been a challenge for government agencies, but as we move forward, we’re making a concerted effort so there is greater trust and collaboration to protect our resources.”

0033061 Courtesy Honolulu Museum Of Art
‘Ahu ‘ula (feather capes) like this one from the 19th century were worn by chiefs, or ali‘i, in Hawai‘i’s past. Photo: Courtesy of Honolulu Museum of Art

“The lessons learned from multiple generations of living here can provide us a guide and a path to help us care for the land and our community.”

—ULALIA WOODSIDE LEE, DIRECTOR OF THE NATURE CONSERVANCY, HAWAI‘I AND PALMYRA

People Have to Want Change

 

Along with untangling land issues, Paepae o He‘eia’s Kawelo believes the people of Hawai‘i have to support the ahupua‘a way of life, even if it means altering habits.

 

“We can restore the system and grow the food, but is the community ready?” she asks. “Will our eating habits shift? It might mean paying more for poi that’s cultivated in the community. It might be paying more for fish that comes out of the fishpond. If I didn’t believe that’s possible, we wouldn’t be doing the work—we’re banking on it.”

What’s Next?

 

At the end of the two-day accelerator, leaders set goals, including involving more key leaders in future conversations. Among those key leaders would be Chang, from DLNR.

 

“I welcome the opportunity to be at the table with them,” Chang says. “I’m optimistic there will be further opportunities for us to collaborate, talk story, share what we are doing. I know we’ll find that we all have a lot in common and can figure out how to maximize our limited resources for the maximum good for the people of Hawai‘i, and in particular, the Native Hawaiian population that has been disenfranchised by government for a long time.”

 

The group also plans to work with OHA as it continues to seek a comprehensive and accurate land inventory, which would bring clarity on Kingdom Lands. Those lands aren’t restricted as to how they’re utilized, unlike Hawaiian home lands.

 

Members of the ahupua‘a group agreed though that their objectives can’t be limited to advocacy for Native Hawaiians. The movement must benefit all of the people of Hawai‘i.

 

“Nurturing land is for everyone; so is the fight for it,” says Jon Osorio, dean of the UH Hawai‘inuiākea School of Hawaiian Knowledge.

 

Says Crabbe: “Hawaiians aren’t in the fight for ourselves. We’re looking out for the welfare of all the people of Hawai‘i.”

 

In the meantime, the leaders plan to study existing models of ahupua‘a at work to see what’s working and what’s not, and how they could be scaled up.

 

“We need to show everyone how we’re going to mālama our land, care for our precious water sources, preserve our oceans, and help all people thrive,” Crabbe says. “It worked in the past, so it can be done again. And we have to remember—to perpetuate righteousness, land must come first.”

04 25 Hm Walter Ritte Courtesy Hawaii Executive Collaborative
Walter Ritte is a Native Hawaiian activist and executive director of the community organization ‘Āina Momona. Photo: Courtesy of Hawai‘i Executive Collaborative

Moloka‘i as a Model

by Walter Ritte, as told to Diane Seo

 

On Moloka‘i, a third of our food comes from subsistence activity, and for our subsistence economy to flourish, we need to care for our reef. We have the largest contiguous reef system in the country. It’s 30 miles, and it was dying because of erosion coming off the land. We had to stop the erosion. The late Hawai‘i Sen. Daniel Inouye and Gov. John Waihe‘e visited Moloka‘i and saw our fishponds, and we got support from both of them. So, more than 20 years later, we have a statewide group organizing fishpond restorations.

 

We’re working on a fishpond owned by Kamehameha Schools. There was a nursery, then after a big rain, mud came down the hillside and into the nursery. Thousands of baby fish died because particles clogged up their gills. For us to survive on Moloka‘i, we have to take care of all our fishponds and bring life back into the ahupua‘a. We’re working with Kamehameha Schools to help stop the erosion coming into the fishpond. We’re also creating a workforce development plan to build facilities to train workers.

 

The fishponds are not just to feed families; they’re also a nursery to stock the entire reef system. For us to have starches, we have to go back to traditional ways. So, we’re removing cows and invasives, planting Hawaiian plants, stopping erosion and letting rainwater soak back into the aquifer.

 

DLNR (Department of Land and Natural Resources) purchased the ahupua‘a next to us. We told them they have the same problems we had with our ahupua‘a, so they came to visit a few months ago and liked what they saw. They expressed interest in going to the state to ask for funding.

 

Back in the day, a million people could survive in Hawai‘i without harming the lands. People used to see me as an enemy. We stopped big tourist boats from coming, and we fought against West Moloka‘i development. But now people see what’s happening on O‘ahu and other islands and talk positively about what we’re trying to do. Hopefully, we can be an example. You have to show people there’s a way.

Helmet Img 0428rev Courtesy Susanne Kurisu
This feather helmet was hand-woven in keeping with traditional artisan methodologies from ancient Hawaiian history. Photo: Courtesy of Susanne Kurisu

Aha Moku System

 

The movement to return to traditional Hawaiian practices of land and ocean management has a precedence. In 2007, then-Hawai‘i Gov. Linda Lingle agreed to establish an Aha Moku Council system on each island. Five years later, an Aha Moku advisory committee was formed under the state’s Department of Land and Natural Resources, with the goal of integrating Native Hawaiian values to sustain natural resources. Despite these efforts, the system was never fully implemented.

The Ahupua‘a Team

A group of leaders, part of the Hawai‘i Executive Collaborative’s Rediscovering Hawai‘i’s Soul effort, came together for two days in late January to discuss the return of ahupua‘a. Members of the group include:

 

  • Kamana‘opono Crabbe, executive lead for Hawai‘i Executive Collaborative’s Rediscovering Hawai‘i’s Soul initiative
  • John DeFries, executive director of Mauna Kea Stewardship and Oversight Authority
  • Corbett Kalama, president/CEO of RESCO Inc., Locations’ parent company
  • Duane Kurisu, chairman/CEO of aio, the parent company of HONOLULU
  • Lynelle Marble, HEC executive director
  • Jon Osorio, dean of UH’s Hawai‘inuiākea School of Hawaiian Knowledge
  • Walter Ritte, Native Hawaiian activist and executive director of ‘Āina Momona
  • John Waihe‘e III, served as Hawai‘i’s fourth governor from 1986 to 1994
  • Ulalia Woodside Lee, The Nature Conservancy’s director, Hawai‘i and Palmyra
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Sage Imber Fashions Give Back to the Earth https://www.honolulumagazine.com/sage-imber/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:00:46 +0000 https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=791594

 

04 25 Hm Style Sage Imber 1

Photos: Sam Feyen

 

Just as one’s style evolves over time, so too do designers’ influences. Such is the case with Yuko Palazzo, whom you may know for her boho resortwear line, Marina & Co., which hit shelves in 2018.

 

Since then, the Diamond Head-based designer has found herself drawn more and more to sustainable practices. “I realized that fashion is not only an art form, but also a means to give back to the earth,” Palazzo says.

 


SEE ALSO: Ease Into Small-Batch Fashions at Kepola Design House


 

04 25 Hm Style Sage Imber 2

Photos: Sam Feyen

 

Thus, in 2021, she launched Sage Imber, her new womenswear label crafted with natural fabrics, eco-friendly dyes and traditional dyeing techniques that reduce chemical waste. Aesthetically, the line leans more minimal-modern. Its latest collection, Symbol, is inspired by our relationship with nature. Slip on a rose-hued day dress or fern-colored linen blazer, or channel wabi-sabi vibes in a checked hemp jumper or an abstract-print kimono top.

 

sageimber.com, @sageimber.thelabel

 

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Hui Mahi‘ai ‘Āina Has Created a Community for Formerly Homeless People https://www.honolulumagazine.com/hui-mahiai-aina/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:00:44 +0000 https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=793444 kauhale, or community of tiny homes, through her nonprofit.]]>

 

At the end of Hilu Street in Waimānalo, Hui Mahi‘ai ‘Āina’s residents welcome us to a vast green space behind Aunty Blanche McMillan’s home. She zooms over on a golf cart, greeting those she hasn’t seen since returning from New Zealand, where she taught people how to implement concepts of kauhale, or communities of tiny homes, to house the homeless.

 

Everyone is happy to see her, though she jokes that some work didn’t get done without her.

 

Hui Mahiai Homes

Photo: James Nakamura

 

McMillan grew up in a family of 17. The Hui Mahi‘ai ‘Āina residences sit on her great-great-tūtū’s land, unused for years before 2020. When pandemic rules prohibited access to the beach, her heart sank for the homeless folks nearby. “I asked God, ‘What can I do to bring people home?’” she says.

 

She started Hui Mahi‘ai ‘Āina in 2014 as a food bank, having spent 15 years as a program coordinator for the Catholic Church. It soon expanded into an outreach program offering other services. The next logical thing was to make sure those who needed it had a roof over their head.

 

McMillan gathered 14 people who were previously living on the beach. They just needed to be loved, she says, to get back on their feet. In fact, love is at the heart of everything she does, and you can tell it’s genuine. “God is my boss,” she says, adding that this is what she was called to do.

 

With donations, she got materials and had everyone build their own homes. In just a month, 11 structures and the beginnings of a community farm were constructed. Now, five years later, 82 people live here, including families, older adults, and those with advanced illnesses. Adult residents pay $200 a month as “program fees”; for each kid, it’s $50 more.

 

Hui Mahiai Homesn2

Photos: James Nakamura

 

Everyone in the community works together like a family, cooking dinner, cleaning and taking care of the land. Residents also help at monthly food distributions at a nearby gymnasium. Right now, the garden has ti (for lei and lau lau), ginger, avocado, lychee, kalo, mountain apple, banana, papaya, aloe, sweet potato, ‘ulu, eggplant, mango, guava, citrus and more. When residents tend the garden, they get to thinking they can grow and flourish just like the plants, McMillan says.

 

These are “beautiful, important people” who fell on hard times or went down the wrong path and ended up on the street, McMillan says. At Hui Mahi‘ai ‘Āina, drugs are not tolerated, and church every Sunday is mandatory. Some residents come through the kauhale for transitional housing, but there’s no pressure to leave.

 

Hui Mahiai Garden And Kitchen

Photos: James Nakamura

 

To act fast, McMillan didn’t obtain proper approval from the state Department of Land and Natural Resources before building. Turns out the housing lies in a flood zone. She’s now working with the state and aio Foundation (which has experience with developing housing at Kahauiki Village near Sand Island) to secure a lease for a nearby parcel. There, 58 units with shared kitchens and bathrooms will be constructed on land that’s at a slightly higher elevation.

 

Until now, the kauhale ran off a generator and a water line from McMillan’s property, with portable toilets available for use. The new space will be linked to sewage and electrical lines and will include a large hall, kitchen, bathrooms and area for medical care. Everything the community has is by donation—no government funds are used.

 

McMillan hopes the homes at the new space will be ready by the end of the year; she already has more than 100 people on the waitlist. Originally, McMillan says she wanted to help house 300 people. Now, she’s aiming for thousands.

 

Aunty Blanche McMillan, right, and her daughter, Wayleen McMillan, at the new housing site

Aunty Blanche McMillan, right, and her daughter, Wayleen McMillan, at the new housing site. Photo: James Nakamura

 

Classes will also be offered to help residents get their GEDs. The area where the existing homes are now will be used for agriculture, and the structures will be donated to homeless communities on Maui and Moloka‘i and in Hilo and Wai‘anae.

 

“The department is in full support of this project. Under the collaboration with aio Foundation, DLNR was reassured that our concerns were addressed. More importantly, when I visited Aunty Blanche’s Hui Mahi‘ai ‘Āina in Waimānalo, I was moved by the sense of community the residents felt for each other, for the place and for themselves,” DLNR Chair Dawn Chang said in a news release last October.

 

Img 2405

Photo: James Nakamura

 

Recently, McMillan served as an adviser to former director of the Statewide Office of Homelessness and Housing Solutions, John Mizuno, who is now a special adviser on homelessness. McMillan is grateful to have the state on her side and plans to tell the Legislature, in no uncertain terms, that there is a solution to homelessness. “If only people could love people, they would never live a miserable life,”she says.

 

huimahiaiaina.org

 

* * *

 

Proceeds from this month’s Hawai‘i Pacific Health and ESPN Honolulu Open pickleball tournament presented by HMSA will go to Hui Mahi‘ai ‘Āina. The aio Foundation is the nonprofit arm of HONOLULU’s parent company, aio, which is also the event producer of the Honolulu Open.

 

 

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Niu Soft Serve’s Hot Kūlolo Sundae Is Its Top Seller https://www.honolulumagazine.com/niu-soft-serve-hot-kulolo-sundae/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:00:43 +0000 https://www.honolulumagazine.com/?p=793401

 

Textured like smooth lava, thick and caramelly, the star of Niu Soft Serve’s hot kūlolo sundae pools around a creamy swirl like a warm, luxuriant lagoon. It’s a boon and a bane. ‘Aiku‘e and Kekahu Napoleon​-​Ahn, brothers who co-founded the tiny vegan dessert shop in Mō‘ili‘ili, wanted a signature item that would speak to their Hawaiian heritage and draw locals to their coconut-based swirls. They debuted their kūlolo creation in 2021, never dreaming that the several dozen pounds of kalo they went through in a month would turn into several hundred pounds. Warm and cold, chewy and crunchy (from toasted macadamia nuts), hot kūlolo sundaes are by far Niu’s top seller.

 

Niu Soft Serve

Photo: James Nakamura

 

Why a bane? The glistening sauce of kalo, coconut milk, brown sugar and salt takes 24 hours to cook. Both brothers and their parents take turns nursing fresh batches four to six days a week.

 

“I have customers tell me, ‘I’ve been coming here for two years and I’ve been thinking of trying something else, but every time I have to get a kūlolo sundae,’” says ‘Aiku‘e Napoleon-Ahn. “We are an ice cream shop, first and foremost, but I swear we spend more time making kūlolo than anything else.”

 

2320 S. King St., niusoftserve.com, @niusoftserve 

 

 

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