Why I’m Fond of Jojo Vasquez’s Chef’s Counter Dinners on Maui

If you know, you know: Maui diners have been fans of chef Jojo Vasquez for more than two decades. Many of his dishes are distinctly Filipino, a nod to his roots, but infused with contemporary flair. His talents have made him a contender on Food Network shows including Iron Chef America and Beat Bobby Flay. This spring, you will see him on Chopped as he goes up against other Hawai‘i chefs to rep the Valley Isle.

Meanwhile, you can find Vasquez at Fond, his restaurant in Napili Plaza in West Maui. Lunch and dinner include items like his famous fried chicken, burgers, bowls, skillets and desserts, all with a touch of local flavor and unexpected European or Asian twists.

SEE ALSO: In Kahului, Balai Pata Is a Celebration of Filipino Fare

I had been to Fond several times, but never for Vasquez’s Chef’s Counter, which my Maui friends have raved about. It is only on Sunday nights, and since the 2023 fires, not every week. I was stoked when my travel schedule finally coincided with theirs.

The menu changes every month, but generally, it’s a six-course tasting menu for $150 per person (plus tax and tip). There are only about 10 seats around the U-shaped counter where Vasquez and his team assemble the dishes. And Vasquez is a great storyteller, providing colorful, personal explanations behind each dish.

Puto with caviar. Photo: Melissa Chang

Usually, the Chef’s Counter menu is drastically different from Vasquez’s usual fusion fare, but on the night that I went, he happened to be celebrating Filipino history. The menu was no less spectacular—my guest, who is normally very picky, ate everything on her plates.

Oysters. Photo: Melissa Chang

We started with steamed Filipino rice cakes, or puto, topped with caviar, then moved into the Kumamoto oysters “kinilaw.” Usually, this is a kind of ceviche, but here, the vinegar “caviar” and squeeze of calamansi served as a mignonette.

Salmon sinigang. Photo: Melissa Chang

Sinigang is a Filipino sour soup, and Vasquez brought a whole new dimension to it with grilled king salmon. But I was more delighted at the surprise of his ginataang kalabasa—usually a coconut milk vegetable stew—reconstructed as a savory custard, with a skewer of lechon on the side.

Ginataang kalabasa. Photo: Melissa Chang

The entrée was “kare kare,” reimagined as a curry sauce poured over warm oxtail terrine. The dessert was simply leche flan, which was a perfect way to end such a creative dinner.

Flan. Photo: Melissa Chang

Vasquez has been resilient and helping to feed the community, despite losing his home, car and belongings in the 2023 Maui wildfires. The Chef’s Counter is one way you can support him as he works to rebuild.

Open Tuesday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Chef’s Counter on selected Sunday evenings, 5095 Napilihau St., Lahaina, (808) 856-0225, fondmaui.com, @fondmaui