Lechon Fries, Calamansi Steak, Ube Churros: Minasa Is a Worthy Mashup

I’m always looking for new places to eat that are close to home on the Leeward side. So I was excited to find Minasa in the heart of Waipahu. It isn’t exactly new. For several years, Minasa has been making appearances at outdoor events, where its pop-ups draw long lines. So long that I never had the patience to wait and try their fare. Until recently, when they opened up their first brick-and-mortar at Tropicana Square.

Minasa at an event. Photo: Eric Baranda

You’ll find this strip mall along Farrington Highway, near the Pouhala rail station. The interior has a hip urban vibe and walls adorned with local artwork. An 80s-style boombox behind the register valiantly blasts out tunes, struggling to be heard over the din of chatter when the place is full.

Photo: Eric Baranda

There are four tables that can each seat up to five adults who don’t mind getting close. If you want to get even more intimate, there are two counters for two. There’s also the takeout option, which appears very popular.

Photo: Eric Baranda

On my first visit, I scope out the place with my family. I’m so impressed with what I finally get that I return to try more. The staff tell me that while there are a couple of staple dishes, others come and go based on what Maleko Lagmay, the chef and co-owner, wants to showcase.

Photo: Eric Baranda

The lechon fries ($17) are a favorite. I can taste why. They’re my favorite as well. The impressive mound of fried pork belly, fries, sauces and garnishes towers above the container. Closing the lid would be challenging. Red and green onion and a hint of cilantro are sprinkled on top. A white sauce vaguely reminiscent of sour cream adds a mild creaminess. All this sits atop a heap of lechon, itself resting on a bed of crinkle-cut fries.

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What impresses me most is the ratio of meat to starch. With loaded fries, I usually find much more starch than meat. In this case, nearly every time I grab what I think is a fry, it turns out to be a piece of lechon. This is a nice surprise every time because of how tasty the lechon is. And how juicy, crispy and fatty. And you get so many morsels. With some effort, I finish this mountain alone, but it’s probably better to share. Whoever you share with will thank you for it, along with your bulging stomach.

Photo: Eric Baranda

The steak rice bowl with calamansi glaze ($16), like all the rice bowls at Minasa, is served with garlic bacon fried rice. So this one basically has a bunch of my favorite foods: steak, garlic, bacon and rice, plus a sunny side up egg. Crunchy garlic flakes are sprinkled on top and bacon bits hide in the rice. Pickled vegetables are also present, but I’m more concerned with everything else, specifically the meat.

The steak is lightly seasoned with a gentle saltiness. The crust is seared to a mild crispiness around a tender center. It reminds me of how my dad cooks his steaks, which makes me enjoy it even more. But what really takes it to the next level is the calamansi glaze. It’s a flavor enhancer, adding sweet and savory bursts of umami goodness. Mixing in the egg yolk brings everything together in a harmonious, gooey medley.

Photo: Eric Baranda

The adobo wings ($10) are a recent addition. Seven glistening wings make for an eye-catching dish. The couple behind us asks what it is. I think they smelled it before they saw it. The adobo’s strong vinegar component makes my eyes water a bit. Garlic chips add a good crunch, and the meat is tender and juicy, but the saltiness and vinegar are slightly overpowering. Since I’m more of a shoyu-sweet adobo person, I set the wings aside and share them later with my mom, who loves this style of vinegary adobo. In my family, she’s the master of adobo and the one who taught me to make it. Who would know better than the master?

Photo: Eric Baranda

Minasa’s signature dish is ube churros ($13). Three churros are blanketed in ube sugar with a generous ube drizzle and custard filling. The portions are smaller than I expect, but there’s no skimping on the ube flavor. The churros are crunchy and softly creamy with a silky smooth sweetness. It’s a great finish if you love ube and have the cash to spare.

Minasa means “to mix” in the Filipino dialect of Tagalog. Lagmay says he created Minasa to pay homage to his grandparents, who instilled in him a passion for cooking. After working in restaurants for more than a decade, he finally went on his own. The result is a welcome addition for Waipahu, for fans of Filipino cooking and for good food in general.

Open Wednesday to Saturday from noon to 4 p.m., 94-866 Moloalo St. D12, (808) 921-6190, minasahawaii.com, @minasahawaii